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THE 



NEW ARCTIC CONTINENT, 



OB 



WRANGELL'S LAND. 



Rearl before the American Association for the Advancement of Science, 

Chicago, August, 1S68. 



£/ 



4. The New Arctic Continent, or Wijangell's Land, 
discovered August 14, 1867, by Captain Long, of the 
American Ship Nile, and seen by Captains Raynor, 

Bl^VEN AND OTHERS, "WITH A BRIEF NOTICE OF BARON 

^Frangell's Explorations in 1823. By William W. 
lmheildon, of Charlestown, Massachusetts. 

In December, 1867, considerable interest was excited through 
the country by the announcement by telegraph from San Fran- 
cisco, of the discovery of a " New Continent in the Arctic 
Regions," which had received from the discoverer the appro- 
priate name of " Wrangell's Land," after the distinguished 
Russian explorer. The discovery was said to have been made 



Z B. NATURAL HISTORY. 

by one of the whale ships visiting the Arctic Regions through 
Behring Strait, which had just returned to the Sandwich 
Islands. It was also stated that the season had been remark- 
ably mild — one of the most temperate ever known — and that 
one of the whale ships had been able to penetrate as far north 
as latitude 83° 30'. The announcement that land had been 
discovered in the region indicated seemed probable, but the 
statement of the latitude reached — never having before been 
attained in any part of the Arctic regions — was received with 
some incredulity ; in addition to which there was evidently an 
error in the statement of the longitude as received by the tele- 
graph. To those who were acquainted with the geography of 
the region indicated, hardly any reported discovery of land 
would have been incredible, so uncertain and imperfect was the 
knowledge of it ; but it might have been considered, as in the 
present case, a rediscovery, or perhaps a simple confirmation 
of a general belief. 

When the printed accounts reached us from the Sandwich 
Islands, it appeare'd that the land reported was first seen by 
Captain Long, of the American whale ship Nile, of New Lon- 
don, on the 14th of August, 1867, in clear weather. The west 
point, which he named " Cape Thomas" (after the seaman who 
first reported the land), was in latitude 70° 46', longitude 178° 
30' E. On the morning of the 15th, the ship at 9 o'clock, was 
eighteen miles distant from its western point. "The lower 
parts of the land," reports Captain Long, "were entirely free 
from snow and had a green appearance as if covered with 
vegetation. There was broken ice between the ship and land, 
but as there were no indications of whales I did not feel justi- 
fied in endeavoring to work through it and reach the shore, 
which I think could have been done without much clanger." 

Captain Long sailed to the eastward, along the land, during 
the 15th and 16th, and in some places approached it as near as 
fifteen miles. "On the 16th the weather was very clear and 
pleasant, and we had a good view of the middle and eastern 
portions of the land. Near the centre, or about in the longi- 
tude of 180°, there is a mountain which has the appearance of 
an extinct volcano. By approximate measurement I found it 
to be 2480 feet high." 



B. NATURAL HISTORY. 6 

Captain Long says he had excellent observations on the 
16th, and the south-eastern cape which he named Cape Hawaii, 
he found to be in latitude 70° 40' north, and longitude 178° 51' 
W. He adds, "it is impossible to tell how far this land ex- 
tends northward, but as far as the eye could reach we could 
see ranges of mountains until they were lost in the distance. 
Captain Bliven, of the whale ship Nautihis, said he saw the 
land north-west of Herald Island, as far north as latitude 72°. 

Captain Ray nor, of whale ship Reindeer, in a letter of No- 
vember 1st, 1867, to the editor of the "Pacific Commercial 
Advertiser," gives an account of this land, "lying in the midst 
of the Arctic Ocean, hitherto but little known." He says, 
" this land has hitherto been considered to be two islands, one 
of which is marked on the English maps as Plover Island, 
which is laid down to the W. S. W. of Herald Island. The 
other is simply marked ' extensive land with high peaks.' On 
my last cruise [the one just terminated] I sailed along the south 
and east side of this island for a considerable distance, three 
different times, and once cruised along the entire shore, and by 
what I considered reliable observations, made the extreme 
south-west cape to lie in north latitude 70° 50' and east longi- 
tude 178° 15'. The south-east cape I found to lie in north lati- 
tude 71° 10', and west longitude 176° 40'. The south coast 
appears to be nearly straight, with high rugged cliffs and en- 
tirely barren. The north-east coast I have not examined to 
any extent, but it appears to run from the south-east cape in a 
north-westerly direction for about fifteen or twenty miles and 
then turns to the north and north-east. I learned from Captain 
Bliven that he traced it much farther north, and has seen others 
who traced it to north of latitude 72°. I think there is no 
doubt that it extends much farther to the north, and that there 
is another island lying to the east of it, say in longitude 170° 
west, and to the north-east of Point Barrow, with a passage 
between it and the land I have just described. ... I 
would add that the south-west cape of this island described 
above, lies seventy-five miles distant from the Asiatic or Sibe- 
rian coast." 

According to Captain Long's observations it will be seen 
that the extent of the discovered land from east to west, is 2° 



4 B. NATURAL HISTORY. 

39' of longitude, equal to about fifty geographical miles ; but 
according to Captain Raynor's observations its extent is equal 
to 5° 5' of longitude, or nearly one hundred and three geo- 
graphical miles, or about one hundred and twenty statute 
miles. So also if the statement of Captain Bliven is to be 
received (and there appears to be no reason why it should not 
be received) the extent of the land from the south-east cape 
(Cape Hawaii, of Captain Long) to the north as far as re- 
ported by Captain Bliven and others, must be at least one 
hundred miles and probably more. 

The season of 1867, is reported as already stated, to have 
been remarkably mild. Captain G. H. Soule, of whale ship 
St. George, says "this season is the most remarkable ever 
known by the whalemen for the scarcity of ice and the good 
weather prevailing during the first and middle parts of the 
season. Otoken, a very intelligent native of Indian Point, 
told me they had two months south wind last winter [1866], 
which I think accounts for the openness of the season." Other 
captains report "whales very scarce." Captain J. B. Winslow, 
of the bark Tammerlane, says the weather was fine in August 
and September ; whales scarce ; took seven ; of the third 
whale he took he speaks as follows : "The third whale we took 
was a stunner, and deserves special mention. It was the big- 
gest whale, by at least one quarter, that I ever saw alongside a 
ship. My third mate kept a tally of what turned out at the 
cooler, and it yielded three hundred and ten barrels and nineteen 
gallons. It was not so fat as some we caught. I have taken 
whales that made two hundred and fifty barrels of oil, but 
never before saw one that would compare in size with this. I 
think it must have been one of the original whales that Noah 
had charge of, which has been growing ever since.""* 

*In regard to the reported scarcity of whales, the following statement will 
show how the matter stood in 1867, as compared with the previous years : 

The number of vessels refitting at the Sandwich Islands in 1867, was 75 

Having sperm oil in barrels, 1940 

" whale " " " 52050 

Averaging to each vessel, in barrels, 720 

Total amount of whale-bone, 11313 lbs. 

Number of vessels in 1866, 76 

Average number of barrels to each 680 

Total amount of whale-bone, 10980 lbs. 

Showing an excess of forty barrels of oil to each vessel, in 1867 over 1866, and 
an excess of whale-bone. 



B. NATURAL HISTORY. 

Baron Wrangell, in his explorations along the coast of Si- 
beria, in March, 1823, was visited in camp by a Tschuktschi 
chief, whom he represents as " a very civilized person in his 
way," and who drew for him with a piece of burned wood, an 
outline of the coast in the neighborhood of Cape Schelagskoi. 
"He farther assured us," says Baron Wrangell, "in the most 
positive manner, that there was no other island along the coast. 
When I asked him whether there was any other land to the 
north beyond the visible horizon, he seemed to reflect a little, 
and then said that between Cape Schelagskoi and Cape North, 
there was a part of the coast where, from some cliffs near the 
mouth of a river, one might in a clear summer's day descry 
snow-covered mountains at a great distance to the north, but 
that in winter it was impossible to see so far. He said that 
formerly herds of reindeer sometimes came across the ice of 
the sea, probably from thence, but that they had been fright- 
ened back by hunters and by wolves ; that he had himself once 
seen a herd returning to the north in this way, in the month of 
April, and that he had followed them in a sledge drawn by two 
reindeer for a whole day, until the rugged surface of the ice 
forced him to desist. His opinion was that these distant 
mountains were not an island, but an extensive land similar to 
his own country. He had been told by his father that a 
Tschuktschi elder had once gone there with a few followers, in 
large baidais, or boats made of skins, but what they found 
there, or whether they ever returned, he did not know. Still 
he maintained that the distant northern land was inhabited, 
and adduced as a proof of it that some years ago a dead whale 
had been found at Arautan Island [on the coast near by], 
pierced by spears pointed with slate ;* and as the Tschuktschi 
do not use such weapons, he supposed that the whale must 
have been wounded by the inhabitants of the northern land." 
Baron Wrangell's position when he received this information 
was in latitude 70° 3' and longitude 171° 3' East. 

A few da} r s after this, Baron Wrangell started with sledges 
over the ice, with a view to reach or discover this northern 
land. Following along the coast for a day or two, on the 13th 
of March, he left the shore and proceeded in a N. N. E. direc- 

*The people of the Aleutian Islands use similar spear heads it is stated. 



6 B. NATURAL HISTORY. 

tion. With the usual difficulties of cold, wind, storm and ice 
hummocks, he continued on until the 23d, about ten days, 
having sent his sledges back excepting two. According to his 
reckoning he reached latitude 70° 51', longitude 175° 27'. His 
distance from the coast was one hundred and five wersts or a 
little more than sixty geographical miles. At the extreme 
point of his journey, Baron Wrangell says, "we climbed one 
of the loftiest ice-hills, affording an extensive view towards the 
north, and from thence we beheld the wide immeasurable 
ocean spread out before our gaze. It was a fearful and mag- 
nificent spectacle. Fragments of ice of enormous size were 
floating on the surface of the agitated ocean, and were dashed 
by the waves with awful violence against the edge of the field 
on the farther side of the channel before us. . . . With 
a painful feeling of the impossibility of overcoming the obsta- 
cles which nature opposed to us, our last hope now vanished of 
discovering the land which we still believed to exist ; and we 
saw ourselves compelled to renounce the object for which we 
had striven through three years of hardship, toil and danger. 
We had done, however, all that duty and honor demanded ; 
and any farther attempts being totally hopeless, I determined 
to return." At this time being in latitude 70° 51', longitude 
175° 27' E., Baron Wrangell was less than sixty miles from 
the westerly point of the discovered land as reported by Cap- 
tain Ray nor. 

A few days later, early in April, 1823, Dr. Kyber, companion 
of Baron Wrangell, became acquainted with some Indian 
chiefs, who spoke much of a "more northern land, the lofty 
mountains of which were visible on very clear days from a 
place which they called Jakan, and which they described with 
tolerable minuteness." On the 8th of the same month Cape 
Jakan was reached and found to be in latitude 69° 42', longi- 
tude 176° 23' E., by reckoning from the previous day. "We 
gazed long and earnestly on the horizon, in hopes, as the at- 
mosphere was clear, of discerning some appearance of the 
northern land which the Tschuktschi affirm that they have seen 
from this place, but we could discover nothing of it." Subse- 
quently M. Matiuschkin made another attempt, with the con- 
sent of Baron Wrangell, to reach the northern land over the 



B. NATURAL HISTOKY. i 

ice, with three sledges and provisions for fifteen days. He 
started from the shore in latitude 69° 28', longitude 177° 44' E., 
on the 9th of April, but succeeded only in getting about six- 
teen wersts or about eleven miles from the coast, on account of 
the breaking up of the ice and the many open spaces. 

Captain Kellett, of H. B. M. ship Herald, in July, 1849, 
having passed through Behring Strait and standing along 
the margin of the ice, discovered a group of islands in latitude 
71° 20', longitude 175° 16' W., one of which he landed upon 
and named Herald island. Another island which he reported 
has not since been seen. Captain Raynor, it will be seen, re- 
ports another island to the eastward of Herald Island, in lati- 
tude 70° W. N. W. from Point Barrow. The Russian navi- 
gator, Sergeant Andreyev, it is stated, reached some land off 
the coast of Asia, in 1702, which he reported to be inhabited 
by a people named Kraihai. 

SUMMARY. 

1. Captain Long's positions, 1867, 

West Point, Cape Thomas, Latitude 70° 46', 

Longitude 178° 30' E. 

South-east Point, Cape Hawaii, Latitude 70" 40', 

Longitude 178° 51' W. 

2. Captain Raynor's positions, 1867, 

Extreme south-west Cape, Latitude 70° 50', 

Longitude 178° 15' E. 

South-east Cape, Latitude 71° 10', 

Longitude 176° 40' W. 

3. Captain Bliveu and others traced the 

coast northward to Latitude 72°. 

4. Baron Wrangell's farthest, in 1823, 

over the ice, Latitude 70° 51', 



Longitude 175° 27 E. 



and did not see the land. 



5. Captain Kellett's position, 1849, Latitude 71° 20', 

Longitude 175° 16' W. 



'a 



Since the preceding pages were written, a new edition of the 
map entitled "Behring Sea and Arctic Ocean, from surveys 
of the U. S. North Pacific Surveying Expedition, in 1855, by 
Commander John Rodgers, U. S. N. commanding, and from 









8 B. NATURAL HISTORY. 

Russian and English authorities," has been issued from the 
" Hydrographic Office, U. S. Navy," with "additions to July, 
1868." The land seen and named by Capt. Long, is laid down 
upon the map in accordance with his statements ; and a draw- 
ing is also given of the land, with its elevated points, probably 
from a sketch made by Capt. Long. " Wrangell's Land," we 
may here remark, falls about ten degrees westerly of the pres- 
ent boundary of the United States in the latitude of 70°. 

The new boundary of the United States passes through the 
middle of Behring Strait, between the Diomede Islands, one 
degree south of the Arctic Circle, leaving Ratmanov Island on 
the Russian side and Kreusenstern Island on the American side. 
From this point it reaches towards the North Pole on the 
meridianal line of 168° 50' west longitude from Greenwich. 
From the Diomede Islands it runs in a nearly south-west direc- 
tion in the North Pacific Ocean, to latitude 50°, in longitude 
about 168° east. So that, at the present time, the territory of 
the United States extends in an east and west direction from 
longitude 67° west (at Eastport, Maine), to longitude 168° 
east in the North Pacific Ocean (beyond the most westerly 
island of the Aleutian Group), equal to 125° of longitude, 
which on the parallel of 45° north latitude would be equal to 
about five thousand three hundred and three geographical 
miles, or six thousand one hundred and eighty-seven statute 
miles. The position at the mouth of Columbia River is nearly 
in the middle of this line and the central point east and west 
of the United States territory, it being about the same distance 
from Eastport to the mouth of Columbia River that it is from 
the Columbia River to the most western extremity of the 
Aleutian Islands. 

Although the newly discovered land does not fall within the 
enlarged limits of the United States, the honor of the dis- 
covery of it belongs to our countrymen ; and the act of Captain 
Long in giving the name of Baron Wrangell to it, although it 
was never seen b}^ him, is a well-deserved compliment to that 
intelligent and indefatigable explorer and to his country. The 
propriety of the name is generally admitted, and it has been 
promptly, in the first instance, adopted by our government in 
its first official publication — the map above mentioned — and 
it will no doubt be universally accepted. 



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